This evening look spotlights a Banarasi tissue sari by Sourav Das, a designer known for reinterpreting traditional Indian textiles with modern vision. His practice is rooted in heritage, yet he often reimagines historic motifs for a contemporary wearer. In this sari, the familiar jaals of Banaras are transformed into stripes and layers of texture, a subtle shift that reshapes opulence for today. The result is both refined and experimental, anchored in history but unafraid of change.
“For this evening bar look, I wanted the sari to resemble a gown. I started with a Nivi drape, then twisted the pallu into a rope that snaked across the bright pink blouse. It allowed the blouse to stand out and complemented LaWhore’s gorgeous thick braids — a balance of elegance and boldness.” – Nikaytaa
Banarasi weaving flourished under the patronage of the Mughal courts and became a symbol of magnificence and ceremony. Zari (metallic) threads, opulent brocades, and intricate jaals (geometric patterns, ofteninspired by Persian and Indian flora) gave the fabric a sacred and elite standing. For generations, Banarasi silks were part of wedding trousseaus and performed social status. They are associated with moments of ritual, festivity, and grandeur across North India.
The drape here begins with the Nivi style;the most widely adopted drape across India. Historically, draping styles reflected region, caste, and labor. Working women tied saris for agility and ease. Elite women emphasized length, ornamentation, and flowing pallus. The Nivi struck a balance between practicality and elegance, which is why it endured. By twisting its pallu into a rope, Nikaytaa reshapes this history. The act changes a familiar form into a sculpted silhouette, proving once again that the sari is never static. It adapts. It carries memory into new shapes.
This reinvention extends beyond styling. Today the sari is increasingly embraced across genders. What was once coded as caste-bound and strictly feminine is now reimagined as performance, resistance, or glamour. In drag, the sari is not disguise but expansion. It is a gesture that stretches identity across the boundaries of tradition.
In this look the Banarasi tissue sari becomes more than fabric. Draped like a gown, paired with bold braids, and styled with intent, it transforms into a stage. It tells us that heritage is not fixed. It can shimmer in new forms, carry new voices, and continue to reinvent the politics of identity and desire.
Did you know that Banarasi silks are woven on pit looms that require several artisans working together. Tissue weaving involves metallic threads laced with silk to create a translucent shimmer. The Nivi drape grew popular partly due to colonial reform movements that encouraged stitched blouses and underskirts with the sari, making it easier for women to wear in public. Today Banarasi silks remain among the most sought-after saris for North Indian weddings.
Sari: Sourav Das