“One of my favourite drapes, the Boggilli Posi Kattukodam is traditionally worn by the Golla shepherd community and Gudati Kapulu agriculturists of southern Andhra Pradesh. The Gollas and Gudati Kapulu use a nine-metre sari. The drape starts with a Nivi drape, then the first and last pleat is taken around the body and tucked at the back. I chose this drape as the sari that was selected for this look was stiff, had a gorgeous zig-zag pattern across the sari, and most importantly had a contrasting pallu that would look swell for this drape.” – Nikaytaa
The ikat with tussar silk sari by Gaurang celebrates both the lustrous texture of tussar silk and the striking geometry of ikat. Gaurang Shah, based in Hyderabad, is known for reviving weaving traditions while presenting them in a way that feels current. In this sari the bold zig-zag design and the contrasting pallu create visual contradiction. It is a textile that asks for an inventive drape.
Ikat weaving in Telangana has a long history. It dates back to the eighteenth century and is known locally as Pochampally ikat. The technique is unique. Threads are resist-dyed before weaving, creating patterns of clean geometry and stylized floral forms once the fabric is finished. The process requires precision and patience, as every line in the final cloth is planned in the dyeing of the threads themselves. Traditionally these saris were worn by rural and pastoral communities. They could carry meaning related to caste, community, or region.
The pairing of tussar silk with ikat is particularly striking. Tussar silk has a natural sheen and slight roughness to its texture. It is heavier than mulberry silk, giving the sari body and weight. In this fabric, structures and folds stay in place. This makes it ideal for drapes like the Boggilli Posi Kattukodam that ask for strength, symmetry, and movement to hold their form.
In this look, heritage meets innovation. The sari is styled in a way that respects its tradition yet opens it to modern interpretation, with “pockets” for LaWhore to put her hands in and pose. The drape draws from the community practices of Andhra Pradesh while also celebrating the bold zig-zag of the ikat itself. The result brings craft, history, and design together in one statement of rhythm and form.
Nikaytaa shares, “For this look, I wanted something stylish but comfortable. I shifted the Nivi drape asymmetrically, placing the pleats on the side so the zig-zag ikat could shine. I belted the pallu at the waist to keep it hands-free, leaving the other end loose so LaWhore could wrap it around her neck like a scarf when she pleased.”
Did you know that Pochampally village near Hyderabad is so famous for its ikat that it is sometimes called the silk city of India. The resist-dye process is known as tie-and-dye; itis called bandha in Odisha and patola in Gujarat. Weaving families often pass down patterns for generations. UNESCO has recognized Pochampally ikat as part of India’s cultural heritage. The beauty of tussar silk comes from silkworms that feed on wild forest leaves, giving the fabric its golden hue.
Sari: Gaurang